Step-by-Step Process of Patola Weaving
1. Designing the Pattern
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The design is first drawn on graph paper, with each square representing a thread intersection.
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Patola designs are traditionally geometric, floral, or inspired by nature, with perfect symmetry.
2. Selecting & Preparing the Silk
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High-quality mulberry silk threads are chosen.
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Threads are degummed (cleaned) and softened to absorb dyes better.
3. Tying the Yarn (Resist Dyeing – Bandhani Style)
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The warp (lengthwise threads) and weft (widthwise threads) are marked according to the design.
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Sections are tightly tied with cotton thread to resist dye penetration.
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This is done for both warp and weft – the hallmark of double ikat.
4. Dyeing the Threads
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Dyed in stages from lighter to darker shades.
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After each color, the tied sections are untied or re-tied according to the pattern.
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This process is repeated for every color in the final design.
5. Aligning the Warp & Weft
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Once dyed, the threads are mounted on a traditional handloom.
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The weaver carefully aligns each thread so the dyed patterns match perfectly at intersections.
6. Weaving on the Loom
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The loom is usually slanted and operated by hand without pedals.
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The weaver uses a shuttle to pass the weft through the warp, matching the pre-dyed patterns.
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Each pass is checked to maintain perfect alignment – even a tiny shift can ruin the design.
7. Finishing the Saree
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Once woven, the fabric is washed, stretched, and ironed.
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Borders and pallu (end-piece) are finished, often with intricate motifs.
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